Chasing Autumn in Hokkaido

Fall in Hokkaido: Snowy Peaks, Blue Ponds, and Vibrant Landscapes

Earlier this month, my girlfriend and I took a spontaneous trip to Hokkaido to catch the fall colors at their peak. We escaped to the beautiful mountainsides near Asahidake for just three days, but it was long enough to get a nice break from Tokyo and completely reconnect with nature. What we got was so much more than just brief photography trip — dramatic mountain landscapes dusted with snow, quiet onsen towns, surreal blue waters, and a last-minute bowl of Hokkaido’s famous miso ramen that nearly made us miss our flight (zero regrets).

Day 1: Aoiike and Fields of Flowers

We landed in Asahikawa at 8:45 AM after a short morning flight out, picked up our rental car, and hit the road. Our first stop: Shikisai-no-oka, the famous flower garden in Asahikawa.

Still early in the morning, we had the entire day ahead of us thanks to the 7:30am flight out of Tokyo. Because of this, many of these famous locations were all to ourselves, and we got to enjoy them in their entirety. At shikisai-no-oka, we were surrounded by patches of pink, purple, and yellow stretching into the hills, framed by autumn trees in full color. Hokkaido in fall really felt like a dream: crisp air, vibrant fields, open roads. No rush, no crowds, just space to breathe in the beautiful smell of all the flowers and take it all in. We walked around dense, saturated flower fields for over an hour, enjoying the colorful display of the deep purple lavender, bright red kochia bushes, and neon yellow mustard.

After visiting some flower gardens and photography landmarks around Asahidake, we set out for Biei to see the famous blue pond Aoiike. We arrived midday, and the pond was absolutely unreal — that luminous turquoise water, so still and vibrant, surrounded by trees just beginning to turn gold. It felt like a scene from a painting. The weather was cool but sunny, and aside from a few other visitors, it was quiet and peaceful. We didn’t rush. Just walked slowly, took it in, and let the cool air and stillness sink in.

That evening, we drove into the mountains and arrived at Sounkyo Onsen, where we checked into a traditional ryokan hotel with tatami floors and a traditional tea table. The hot springs were waiting, and after a long day of exploring, we slipped into the steaming baths under the stars. Quiet, warm, and completely relaxing — the perfect end to the day.

Day 2: Snow at the Summit — Climbing Kurodake

The next morning, we set out to climb Kurodake, one of the peaks in Daisetsuzan National Park. We took the ropeway up partway, then hiked the rest. What we weren’t expecting? Ice.

We had checked the weather forecast the previous day, and saw lots of snow on the massive, steep slopes of the mountain all the way from the airport 30 miles away, so we were well prepared for a cold, snowy hike up the summit. As we climbed higher, fall turned to winter. The trail became snowy, the wind sharp, and the trail fully dusted in snow. It was freezing, but stunning. We passed just a handful of hikers, maybe six people by the halfway point. It felt like we had the mountain to ourselves.

As we got closer to the summit, snow turned to thick sheets of ice covering the rocks. Near the peak, the wind blew fiercely towards the path, pushing snow our way. Due to the time of year, freeze-and-thaw conditions were present, turning all this snow into a thick formation of black ice as our final obstacle to reach the summit, at a difficult 30-degree incline. Together we managed, and through our shared strength we managed to pull our way to the summit. The wind was harsher than a storm, and the cold made our hands so cold we couldn’t move our fingers, but the view was clear and gorgeous. With the limited cold-weather gear we had on, we could only enjoy it for a minute, but it felt like we got to soak up the beauty of the mountaintops for an entire year. Clouds, ice, and snow merged together as one atop the mountain, creating a once in a lifetime view that mere words could not represent.

For my girlfriend, this was the highlight of the trip — hiking through snow and silence, bundled up and side by side. We weren’t expecting a real alpine adventure in October, but that’s what made it unforgettable. My highlight of the trip was soaking in the hot onsen after our cold, difficult descent. After soaking our sore legs and watching the steam drift around us, we enjoyed a cozy sleep in our ryokan together.

After the descent, we warmed up in the onsen again, soaking our sore legs and watching the steam drift into the cool mountain air.

Day 3: Waterfalls and One Last Bowl of Ramen

On our last day, we had a bit of time before our 14:30 flight, so — naturally — we decided to hunt down one final adventure together.

We slept in until 9:00am the next day and warmed up in the onsen again, soaking our sore bodies and enjoying the onsen for the last time. Over breakfast we made our plans, and decided to head out to Ryusei Waterfalls, a nearby collection of waterfalls only a short five minute drive away. It wasn’t a long stop, but it left an impression.

The main waterfall is tall, narrow, and powerful — cutting through a backdrop of rugged cliffs and bright fall foliage. You can hear it before you see it, the crash of water echoing through the valley. We stood there for a few minutes just watching it thunder down, mist rising at the base, surrounded by reds and oranges. It was one of those moments where nature feels huge and alive, and you feel lucky just to be standing there.

Setting out for the airport to take the flight back to Tokyo, we still had one thing on our list to go to - something in Hokkaido that may be even more famous than the mountains, the snow, or lake Aoiike: Miso Ramen. We found a small, no-frills ramen shop back in Asahikawa on the way to the airport and ordered their specialty: Miso ramen with fried pork, naruto, and a hard-boiled egg.

What we got was easily the best ramen of our lives.

The broth was deep and rich, perfectly salty, loaded with umami, and stuck to the noodles perfectly to add their flavor into every bite. The noodles were heavenly and soft, with a vibrant flavor of their own. The warmth cut through the morning chill. We were so caught up in the moment that we barely made it to the airport on time — but honestly, it would’ve been worth missing the flight.

Looking Back

In just three days, we saw a side of Hokkaido that felt wild, raw, and peaceful. From surreal blue waters to flower-filled hills, from hiking snowy peaks to relaxing in hot springs — it was a trip full of contrast and calm. But more than anything, it was time spent together — in the cold, in the quiet, in shared awe.

And sometimes, that’s all you really need.